For any veteran homebrewer the amazing thing about kits is the sheer variety available today. Not all that many years ago a homebrew shop might have carried a handful of kits: a “lager,” a “dark,” maybe a stout if the selection was especially good.

Today you can find a preassembled kit for just about every style you can name: classic pilsner, pale ale, porter, alt, even Belgian Trappist ale. There are even a few styles that, beyond the world of kits, don’t exist. How do you classify, for instance, a Dutch lager? A Canadian ale? A New Zealand draft? None of these are listed in classic style books, but they’re names of kits.

So the question is: How do you choose? We’ve assembled a quick reference of 175 of the most well-known kits on the market, with information on what’s included in each kit and a short description of the beer it produces. For more detailed information on what kit would best match your taste, talk to your retailer.

Also, while this list includes kits that are distributed nationally through homebrew distributors, many retailers assemble their own top-quality kits. The Home Brewery sells preassembled kits at each of its 20 stores and at other retail outlets. HopTech, Bierhaus International, and many others also produce their own kits.

No matter which kit you choose, here are a few tips that will help you brew better beer.

Instructions

One of the most common complaints about kits is that the instructions aren’t clear. The instructions on canned extracts are often printed on the label or on a small pamphlet inserted under the lid. Space is limited, so they give you the basics and not much more.

If you’ve never brewed before, be sure to ask your retailer for directions. Most retailers have a set of clear step-by-step instructions they’ve prepared for new customers.

To Boil or Not to Boil? That is the question. Many kits call for the “no boil method” of brewing. The instructions tell you, basically, just to add the extract to the proper amount of water, then pitch the yeast. The problem is that you run a high risk of contamination if you don’t boil the wort for at least 10 minutes. Contamination means the beer develops off-flavors from wild yeast and bacteria. At its worst the beer might be entirely undrinkable.

The flip side of this is that if you do boil, you’ll lose the hop aroma that can be such a pleasant part of beer flavor. As a compromise, many retailers recommend a short boil and have their customers add their own aroma hops.

Lager vs. Ale: Just because your kit says lager on the front doesn’t mean you’re actually making a lager beer. The primary difference between lagers and ales is that lagers are fermented cold, usually in the range of 50° to 55° F, while ales are fermented at cellar temperature, 60° to 70° F. Lagers require a special yeast strain that works well in cold temperatures, and the lagering process generally takes longer than ale fermentation.

 If your kit says “lager” but the instructions call for warm fermentation, your beer may taste great, but it won’t be a lager. If that matters to you, ask your retailer for lager yeast and instructions on lagering.

Yeast. Virtually all kits come with dried yeast. The yeast becomes active and multiplies when it’s added to a sugar solution. The best way to pitch this yeast is to create a solution before you pitch it. In other words don’t just sprinkle the yeast on top of your wort in the fermenter. Instead take 3/4 cup of wort and pour it into a sterilized bowl or bottle. Cool by adding 3/4 cup cold water. When the temperature is below 80° F, add the yeast to it. Cover the solution with plastic wrap and let it sit until a foamy head develops, 15 minutes to half an hour. Then pitch the solution.