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Birth of a New Style: Cascadian Dark Ale

Author:  Marc Martin Issue: Jul/Aug 2010

A new style of beer is emerging from the breweries of the Pacific Northwest. Dark like a porter, but hoppy like an IPA. Some call it Cascadian dark ale. Others call it Black IPA. We’ve got three clone recipes you’ll call delicious.

Variety is the spice of life. For hundreds of years, wine drinkers have enjoyed many different wine varieties and a vast array of vintages. Beer aficionados, especially those in the US, have not been so lucky. It has only been since the late 70s and early 80s that a wider variety of beer styles have become readily available. We are now blessed with 78 beer styles, many with sub-categories, recognized by the Great American Beer Festival (GABF). Most of these have been around for many years, with fewer styles being recent additions. That is what makes the birth  of a new beer style exciting.
   
This brings us to the great Pacific Northwest, home to vast fields of barley and, of course, the two largest hop producing regions in North America — the Yakima Valley and the Willamette Valley. With the most breweries of any city in the world, it is easy to understand why beer-loving residents refer to Portland, Oregon as “Beervana.” What better place for the beginnings of a flavorful new beer style?
   
On January 23rd, I was fortunate to be invited to a beer symposium to discuss Cascadian dark ale. Seven other beer writers and thirteen brewers gathered at one of the most famous bottle shops in the northwest, Belmont Station, to discuss this new style. The meeting was lead by Abram Goldman-Armstrong, a local beer writer and volunteer point man for promoting this new beer style. Nineteen examples of the proposed new style were present for a tasting and to serve as a basis for evaluating the limits of the style parameters. Industry leaders like Rob Widmer of Widmer Brewing were among the attendees to offer their support and feedback. The plan was to finalize the style descriptors and basic recipe guidelines. Once completed, this information would be forwarded to the Brewers Association (BA), organizers of the GABF, and also to the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) for their consideration.
   
The proposed beer name was Cascadian Dark Ale. The term “Cascadia” is derived from the Cascade Mountain Range. It is used to describe a self -designated region that encompasses British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, western Idaho and northern California. This area, also known as “The Peoples Republic of Cascadia,” has been the source of many stories and rumors. There has been talk of seceding from the union in order to protect the hop supply. A Cascadian flag has even been created featuring a tall evergreen tree and three colors, blue, white and green representing blue sky, white capped mountains and green forests.
   
Who brewed the first version of this style is a point of great debate. Some say Greg Noonan of Vermont brewed one in the early 90s, but this can’t be substantiated. What we do know is that the first two widely-known examples came from the Northwest. In 2003, John Maier of Rogue Brewing in Newport, Oregon made Skull Splitter, a black interpretation of his Brutal Bitter strong IPA. About that same time Matt Phillips, owner of Phillips Brewing in Victoria, British Columbia brewed Black Toque which he labeled an India Dark Ale. (Dogfish Head’s Indian Brown Ale, a beer with a similar mix of dark grains and extensive hops, has been available since 1999.) 
   
Since then, many dark brown to black beers of IPA proportions have been brewed by Northwest breweries, usually as a specialty beer for a festival. The style gained greater exposure when Widmer Brewing’s W-10, also know as Pitch Black IPA, won a gold medal in last year’s Great American Beer Festival (GABF). Now this beer is part of their bottled line up and distributed in several states. Probably the biggest indicator of the popularity of this style was that nineteen breweries produced the examples we tasted for this symposium. So, what is so special about this beer?
   
A quick review of the specifications we proposed will provide your first clue:

Color = 30+ SRM
Original gravity = 1.060–1.080
Final gravity = 1.010–1.016
Bitterness = 50–90 IBU
Alcohol by volume = 6.0–8.5% 
   
Your second clue is a list of the proposed style descriptors:

Aroma – Prominent Northwest variety hop aromas – resinous pine, citrus, sweet malt, hints of roast malt, chocolate and/or Carafa®, can include mild coffee notes, dry hopped character is often present.       

Appearance – Deep brown to black with ruby highlights. Head varies from white to tan/khaki.

Flavor – A balance between citrus like and spicy Northwest hop flavor, bitterness, caramel and roast, chocolate, or Carafa® type malts. Any roast character should be subdued. Black malt is acceptable at low levels but should not be astringent. Any burnt character is not appropriate. The finish should be dry with caramel malt as a secondary flavor. Diacetyl should not be present. The main emphasis should be on hop flavor.

Mouthfeel – Light to medium, hop bitterness and tannins from roast malts combine to create a dry mouthfeel. Resinous character from high levels of dry hopping may create a tongue coating sensation.

Comments – Some brewers prefer to cold steep the dark grains to achieve a very dark beer without the tannin contribution of adding these grains to the mash. The use of Sinamar® color extract to enhance the color is common.
   
What differentiates Cascadian dark ale from a hoppy porter or stout? There are really three main differences. The first would be the basic hop profile. These beers are brewed using traditional IPA bittering, flavor and aroma hops with citrus, spice and floral characteristics. Typical hop selections would be Columbus, Centennial, Chinook, Amarillo, Simcoe and Cascade or hybrids of these like Warrior or Magnum. The second would be the vastly reduced roast malt flavor contributions. The use of debittered Carafa® malts instead of black patent or roast barley. This provides color without the harsher, burnt flavor profiles of robust porters or stouts. And finally, the third is the much drier finish. This is achieved through the use of very little light caramel malts and highly attenuative yeasts.
   
It should be easy to see that this is a big, dark, hoppy beer of proportions that certainly puts it in a classification of its own. The 19 examples we evaluated had interesting names such as Dark Days Black, Arctic Apocalypse, Black Sheep, Hop In The Dark, and Chaos Imperial Dark. After tasting each one, our panel discussed the flavor profile to see how they compared. It was agreed that one of the key characteristics of this style was that the dark malts are so subdued that, if you closed your eyes during a sip, you would not suspect that the beer was black. We also noted that the interaction of the debittered dark malts and citrusy Northwest IPA hops like Cascade, Simcoe and Amarillo exposed unsuspected flavors. Some picked up a minty flavor while others used descriptors of herbal and rosemary-like. The professional brewers all agreed that a neutral yeast of the American ale variety was advisable to use.
   
By the end of the tasting, the guidelines were finalized and Abram forwarded these to the BA and BJCP. In a letter dated February 11th sent from Chris Swersey, competition manager of the GABF, the good news was received. Charlie Papazian had completed the style update for 2010 and included this new style. The name “Cascadian” was deleted as it was felt that non-Northwestern brewers may be turned off to the style if it hinted of regional exclusivity. The accepted name is American-Style India Black Ale. The style descriptors remained relatively unchanged but some of the basic specifications were scaled back. Here are the finalized GABF numbers:

Color = 25+ SRM 
Original Gravity = 1.056–1.075
Final Gravity = 1.012–1.018
Bitterness = 50–70 IBU
Alcohol by volume = 6–7.5%

The BJCP does not update their style guidelines yearly, as the GABF does, and Cascadian dark ale has not been accepted as an official BJCP beer style. Unofficial feedback from BJCP officials indicates that, if examples of this beer start showing up at homebrew contests at a reasonable frequency, it could be included in the next style guideline revisions. (If you choose to compete with this style, enter it in Category 23 and describe the beer as a Cascadian dark ale, an India Black Ale or Black IPA.)
   
Now that you understand the origins of the style, take a look at the recipes to see how to brew one. Remember that you were present for the birth of a new style and now you can be the first in your area to “Brew Your Own” Cascadian dark ale.

Widmer Brewing Co.
W-10 Pitch Black IPA clone

(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.064  FG = 1.014
IBU = 65   SRM = 30  ABV = 6.5%

Ingredients
7.75 lbs. (3.5 kg) Briess light, unhopped, liquid malt extract
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) caramel malt (10 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Weyermann dehusked Carafa® II malt (450 °L)
10 oz. (0.28 kg) Briess special roast malt (50 °L) 
16 AAU Warrior hops (75 mins) (1.0 oz./28 g of 16% alpha acid)
1.4 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins) (0.25 oz./7.1 g of 5.8% alpha acid)
12 AAU Warrior hops (2 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 16 % alpha acid)
0.25 oz. (7.1 g) Warrior hops (dry hops)
0.50 oz. (14 g) Cascade hops (dry hops)
½ tsp. yeast nutrient (15 mins)
½ tsp. Irish moss (30 mins)
White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or Fermentis US-05 yeast 
0.75 cup (150 g) corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step
Steep the crushed grain in 2.0 gallons (7.6 L) of water at 150 °F (66 °C) for 30 minutes. Remove grains from the wort and rinse with 2.0 quarts (1.8 L) of hot water. Add the liquid malt extract and boil for 75 minutes. While boiling, add the hops, Irish moss and yeast nutrient as per the schedule. During the boil, use this time to thoroughly sanitize a fermenter. Now add the wort to 2.0 gallons (7.6 L) of cold water in the sanitized fermenter and top off with cold water up to 5.0 gallons (19 L). 
   
Cool the wort to 75 °F (24 °C). Pitch your yeast and aerate the wort heavily. Allow the beer to cool to 68 °F (20 °C). Hold at that temperature until fermentation is complete. Transfer to a carboy, avoiding any splashing to prevent aerating the beer and add the dry hops. Allow the beer condition for 1 week and then bottle or keg. Allow the beer to carbonate and age for 2 weeks and enjoy your W-10 Pitch Black Ale.

W-10 Pitch Black IPA clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.064  FG = 1.014
IBU = 65   SRM = 30  ABV = 6.5%

Ingredients
10.5 lbs. (4.8 kg) 2-row pale malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) caramel malt (10 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Weyermann dehusked Carafa® II malt (450 °L)
10 oz. (0.28 kg) Briess special roast malt (50 °L) 
12.8 AAU Warrior hops (75 mins) (0.8 oz./23 g of 16% alpha acid)
1.4 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins) (0.25 oz /7.1 g of 5.8% alpha acid)
12 AAU Warrior hops (2 mins) (0.75 oz /21 g of 16 % alpha acid)
0.25 oz. (7.1 g) Warrior hops (dry hops)
0.50 oz. (14 g) Cascade hops (dry hops)
½ tsp. yeast nutrient (15 mins)
½ tsp. Irish moss (30 mins)
White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or Fermentis US-05 yeast 
0.75 cup (150 g) corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step
This is a single step infusion mash using 10.5 lbs. (4.8 kg) of 2-row pale malt to replace the liquid malt extract in the first recipe. Mix the crushed grains with 4.0 gallons (16 L) of 161 °F (72 °C) water to stabilize at 150 °F (66 °C) for 60 minutes. Sparge slowly with 170 °F (77 °C) water. Collect approximately 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort runoff to boil for 75 minutes. The 75-minute Warrior hop addition is reduced to 0.8 oz. (23 g) (12.8 AAU) to allow for the higher utilization factor of a full-wort boil. The remainder of this recipe and procedures are the same as the extract with grains recipe.

 Turmoil Cascadian Dark Ale clone   
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.070  FG = 1.010
IBU = 94   SRM = 35  ABV = 7.9%

Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3.0 kg) Muntons light, unhopped, liquid malt extract
1 lb. 2 oz. (0.51 kg) Briess light dried malt extract
18 oz. (0.51 kg) Weyermann dehusked Carafa® II malt (450 °L)
18 oz. (0.51 kg) Munich malt
8.0 oz. (0.23 kg) crystal malt (40 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) wheat malt   
3.0 AAU Columbus hops (first wort hops) (0.2 oz./5.7 g of 15% alpha acid)
1.3 AAU Simcoe hops (first wort hops) (0.1 oz./2.8 g of 12.8% alpha acid)
9.8 AAU Magnum hops (60 mins) (0.7 oz /19.8 g of 14% alpha acid)
6.4 AAU Simcoe hops (60 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 12.8% alpha acid)
5.0 AAU Amarillo hops (30 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 10% alpha acid)
2.6 AAU Cascade hops (15 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 5.25% alpha acid)
2.6 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 5.25% alpha acid)
3.9 AAU Cascade hops (0 mins) (0.75 oz /21 g of 5.25% alpha acid)
1.25 oz. (35 g) Amarillo hops (dry hops)
½ tsp. yeast nutrient (15 mins)
½ tsp. Irish moss (30 mins)
White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or Fermentis US-05 yeast  
0.75 cup (150 g) corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step
Steep the crushed grain in 2.0 gallons (7.6 L) of water at 152 °F (67 °C) for 30 minutes. Remove grains from the wort and rinse with 2.0 quarts (1.8 L) of hot water. Add the liquid and dry malt extract and boil for 60 minutes. While boiling, add the hops, Irish moss and yeast nutrient as per the schedule. Add first wort hops (FWH) to your brewpot as you are first heating it to a boil. Now add the wort to 2.0 gallons (7.6 L) of cold water in the sanitized fermenter and top off with cold water up to 5.0 gallons (19 L).  
  
Cool the wort to 75 °F (24 °C). Pitch your yeast and aerate the wort heavily. Allow the beer to cool to 68° F (20 °C). Hold at that temperature until fermentation is complete. Transfer to a carboy, avoiding any splashing to prevent aerating the beer and add the
dry hops. Allow the beer condition for 1 week and then bottle or keg. Allow the beer to carbonate and age for 3 weeks.

Turmoil Cascadian Dark Ale clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)

OG = 1.070  FG = 1.010
IBU = 94   SRM = 35  ABV = 7.9%

Ingredients
11.5 lbs. (5.2 kg) 2-row pale malt
18 oz. (0.51 kg) Weyermann Carafa® II malt (450 °L)
18 oz. (0.51 kg) Munich malt
8.0 oz. (0.23 kg) crystal malt (40 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) wheat malt   
3.0 AAU Columbus hops (first wort hops) (0.2 oz./5.7 g of 15% alpha acid)
1.3 AAU Simcoe hops (first wort hops) (0.1 oz./2.8 g of 12.8% alpha acid)
7.0 AAU Magnum hops (60 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 14% alpha acid)
6.4 AAU Simcoe hops (60 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 12.8% alpha acid)
4.0 AAU Amarillo hops (30 mins) (0.4 oz /11 g of 10% alpha acid)
2.6 AAU Cascade hops (15 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 5.25% alpha acid)
2.6 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins) (0.5 oz /14 g of 5.25% alpha acid)
3.9 AAU Cascade hops (0 mins) (0.75 oz /21 g of 5.25% alpha acid)
1.25 oz. (35 g) Amarillo hops (dry hops)
½ tsp. yeast nutrient (15 mins)
½ tsp. Irish moss (30 mins)
White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or Fermentis US-05 yeast  
0.75 cup (150 g) corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step
This is a single step infusion mash using 11.5 lbs. (5.2 kg) 2-row pale malt to replace the liquid and dry malt extract. Mix the crushed grains with 19 quarts (18 L) of 163 °F (73 °C) water to stabilize at 152° F (67 °C) for 60 minutes. Sparge slowly with 170 °F (77 °C) water. Collect approximately 7.0 gallons (26 L) of wort runoff to boil for 90 minutes. Add first wort hops (FWH) as you are collecting your wort. Reduce the 60-minute Magnum hop addition to 0.5 oz. (14 g) (7.0 AAU) and the 30 minute Amarillo hop addition to 0.4 oz. (11 g)  (4.0 AAU) to allow for the higher utilization factor of a full wort boil. The remainder of this recipe is the same as the extract with grains recipe.

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