Box Your Beer

I had only made about three batches of homebrewed, bottled beer before it occurred to me that I had no idea how I was going to store this stuff. Soon thereafter, I discovered the awful truth: Good beer boxes can be hard to find.    

Sure, you might be able to talk a clerk into handing you the castoffs from a commercial bottler. And you might be lucky; your favorite homebrew supply shop might keep boxes in stock. But where are the sturdy cases of old? The ones with flip-tops and solid cardboard meant to survive years of returnable abuse?    

And what about those of us who choose to use large bottles? I need something that can hold all of the 16-ounce and 22-ounce bail-top
bottles I’ve collected over the years, not to mention the 22-ounce bombers that I use for laying down barleywines and Belgians. I need a container that is solid and sturdy, but not too heavy.    

Plus, I like to build things. So I decided to custom-design my own.

Build Your Own: Figuring out what you need   

After some thought, I decided that what I really needed was a simple design that would be easy to build on a beer budget. Fortunately, I only had to look into my wine cellar to find an example of a wooden box with no frills.    

Unfortunately, wine boxes are made of a thin wood that can’t be found at Home Depot and aren’t really all that knock-about sturdy. I needed alternative materials and precise measurements. (See sidebar containing material list, measurements and sizes, below.)     

After measuring my collection of Kalamazoo Brewing longnecks, squat Anchor bottles, import bail-tops and bombers, I figured I needed two different box sizes. I needed one box that would hold a case of 12-ounce longneck bottles and another box that would hold a dozen larger bottles.   

The next obstacle was dividing the interior spaces. How would I partition the space? The easiest answer is also the best; simply recycle some cardboard partitions from your beer or wine shop. They last.
If you are a real woodshop junkie, you can use them as a template to recreate your own set of partitions made of wood.    

For our example, we’ll build one box for longnecks, by far the most popular bottles for home use, and another box for bombers or bail-tops. And we’ll experiment with different materials. I have included the measurements for both. 

Hardware Shopping List:

• Hardboard 1/4” - $9.50
• Iso board 1/4” underlay - $8.47
• Iso board 1/2” - $10.97
• Luan 1/4” underlay - $8.47
• Luan 3/4” - $35.77
• MDF 1/2” - $13.10 MDF 3/4” - $18.70
• Plywood 1/4” BC - $10.97
• Plywood 3/8” BC (11/32) - $12.17
• Plywood 1/2” CDX (15/32) - $9.48 Multiply underlayment 4x4$ - 9.97

Box Sizes:

24 12-ounce Longnecks

• Interior size 16” L x 11” W x 10” H
• Assuming 1/2” plywood or MDF base/ends
• Base 16” L x 11” W x 1/2”
• Ends 11” W x 10.5” H
• Sides 17” L x 10.5” H x (your choice)

12 16- or 22-ounce Bail-Top or Bombers

• Interior size 14” L X 10.5” W x 11” H
• Assuming 1/2”plywood or MDF base/ends
• Base 14” L x 10.5” W x 1/2”
• Ends 10.5” W x 11.5” H x 1/2”
• Sides 15” L x 11.5” H x (your choice)

Materials and Cost: Searching the scrap pile  

Like any sensible homebrewer, before I priced out the materials I looked into my large scrap pile and found enough of the plywood, medium density fiberboard (MDF), and hardboard necessary to make several boxes. Then I measured the bottles and did some math, confirming my figures by measuring existing boxes and cases.Cut the Pieces: Choosing to go topless   

A box is four sides, plus a bottom and perhaps a top. For increased simplicity (and to save time), we’ve chosen to skip building a top. The bottom in our example is completely internal. This means that the sides wrap around it, instead of resting on top of it. This should be stronger and more simple to build.   

Adding a top is primarily a hinge issue. Hinged tops, whether one- or two-piece, can add both unnecessary time and effort. You might disagree. What you won’t contest, though, is that hoisting a case of beer can be backbreaking! To simplify lifting, I decided to add handles on each end. I measured in 3.5 inches from each edge and 2 inches down for height, then I drilled two 1-inch holes and connected the dots with a saber saw. That seems both easier and superior to making a handle out of rope (two holes and knotted rope ends) or attached blocks of wood. Just don’t forget to sand the openings nice and smooth and perhaps bevel the edges with a file or router to make it easier on your hands.

Putting it Together: Glue, nails and screws   

For any permanent construction, you need to use screws (or nails) and glue (or construction adhesive) at each joint. Glue provides the bonding and the nails provide clamping force while the glue dries and structural strength.   

The best sides are made from 1/4-inch plywood or 1/8-inch flooring underlayment like Luan (a tropical hardwood). It’s easier to drill and nail than hardboard and the surface compresses nicely when sinking nails or screws. It’s also a few ounces lighter.   

A potential problem with hardboard or leftover paneling scraps is that the surface is slick and tough to adhere things to. In order to ensure a good bond, roughen the three glued edges and nail or screw every 3 to 4 inches.    

At the ends, where your plywood end panels attach to a plywood base (or MDF to MDF) I suggest exterior-grade “deck” screws three times as long as the end is thick. For attaching the sides, I tried both screws and flat-headed ring-shank nails. The nails are quicker but not as elegant. All screw heads should be countersunk so they are flush against the wood.

Preassembly and Predrilling: Making sure everything fits   

Preassembly and predrilling pilot holes for both screws and nails is a good idea. The plywood we’re screwing or nailing into is not very thick, 1/2 inch or so, and banging in a thick nail or screw will split the end — or your nail will drift through the surface. Besides, preassembly ensures that everything fits, and having nice assembly marks ensures that the pieces will fit together accurately when everything is slippery and sloppy with glue or adhesive. Most hardware stores can advise you on the correct drill size for your chosen nail or screw. If you use MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) the correct drill size is critical; too small and the end will split, too large and it won’t hold. To hold things together for predrilling, I first tried a dry-fit using a band clamp (a fabric belt with ratchet) and then pipe clamps. I preferred using a band clamp.    

The easiest, no-clamp solution is to predrill the ends, just holding them accurately in position, and drilling gently. Then apply glue and attach the ends to base. Next lay this big “U” shape on its side and predrill one set of side holes. Use care; the ends tend to lean in a bit. Then you can apply the glue and screw or nail the side to the base and the ends and repeat the process for the other side.

Boxing Day: Celebrating your creation   

Now that I have enough boxes ready to hold my next fifteen gallons of homebrew, I made the following observations: The boxes are sturdy and should last decades. They are inexpensive, less than $5 apiece unless you want walnut veneer or solid oak. Plywood is lighter and makes better sides; MDF is heavier, easier to work with and paints better. In my opinion, plywood is a better all-around choice. It takes an afternoon to make one or three boxes; with a friend, a nice table saw and a full-size drill press you could make a dozen.    

A Final Note

Throughout my preliminary search for beer boxes — I tried the Web, stores and catalogs — I never thought to visit each of my local homebrew shops. It just so happens that one of these, The Red Salamander in Grand Ledge, Michigan, does indeed carry sturdy beer boxes. So if you like the idea of wooden beer boxes but don’t have the time, motivation or tools to build your own, be sure to check with your favorite homebrew supplier first. You could also order from the Red Salamander. Phone: (517) 627-2012. Web: redsalamander@virtualave.net. The boxes cost $10 plus $2 for shipping.  

Thom Cannell is a veteran automotive writer and editor and an avid homebrewer. He lives in Lansing, Michigan and is a regular contributor to BYO.