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My system is simple and utilizes all gravity flow — no pumps. It was inexpensive, but with most of the parts self-made, it performs exactly how I want it to. I buy the grain in bulk and crack it. This has become very cost effective, and I would much rather spend money on good grain than pumps and heating elements for a slightly higher efficiency.

The Frame is three-tiered and has two wheels to make it easier to maneuver. Since I do not use a pump, everything has to flow by gravity from the valves into the next pot.

I was able to get 7.5 and 15 gallon stainless steel kettles for mashing, lautering and boiling a 10–15 gallon batch. A large keg is a must.

The Setup
I use a slotted copper pipe frame to collect the run-off. Copper is able to withstand high temperatures, helps the yeast grow and is easy to clean. I am able to slide the slotted copper-frame into the hole on the inside of the keg.  For cleaning purposes the frame can be dissembled into three pieces. So far I have not had a stuck runoff.

The Lautertun and Mashtun
With a full mash brew, the total finished amount of boiled beer needs to be chilled fast. I use two cooling systems. One is permanent, with a 15’ long coiled copper pipe installed in the boiling pot for the first stage of cooling. It gets sanitized when the wort is boiled.

Wort Chiller
A 25’ long 3/8” copper pipe inside of a 3/4” garden hose is able to provide the rest of the cooling. I run cold water through both. Chilling 12 gallons usually takes under 30 minutes.

Wort Chiller


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